‘Untitled’, the fragrance of Maison Martin Margiela was launched at Colette in January and finally last Thursday, it was Belgium’s turn… A bit strange of course because Margiela is originally a Belgian brand, but the fact that L’Oréal is behind the brand’s first fragrance explains a lot (they’re also producing all the Victor & Rolf, Diesel and Armani fragrances).
I Love Belgium wasn’t there in January at Colette but we were sure the Belgian launch was much cosier :-). When we arrived at the Margiela shop in the Rue Léon Lepage in downtown Brussels, there was a small flower shop especially created at the entrance of the shop. It only sold white flowers, not a big surprise for Margiela of course. Inside the invitees (a mix of hardcore Margiela followers, Dansaert hipsters and fashion people – I Love Belgium spotted A.F. Vandevorst, Café Costume’s Saskia Van Gils, Isabelle Lenfant, Linda Van Waesberge, Nele Bernheim and Didier Vervaeren) were listening to Margiela people in white lab coats explaining the first fragrance. A tower of plastic champagne glasses formed a festive display for MM’s first perfume.
The bottle and packaging were designed in collaboration with Fabien Baron and 19th century glass stoppered bottles inspired it. The bottle looks like it’s dipped in white paint, another Margiela touch just like the cotton thread which is tied on by hand referring to the white thread of those four famous white stitches that marks a Margiela piece of clothing out. ‘Untitled’ is written on the bottle in the trademark Margiela typewriter font as well as ‘Maison Martin Margiela’.
From the colour though, without even smelling it, the message is ‘green’. That’s ‘green’, not to be mistaken with ‘floral’ which this perfume definitely is not. The principal element is ‘galbanum’ which apparently is quite a rare raw material. Margiela used ‘green’ apparently as a starting point because of its natural qualities and simplicity. The perfume is a female perfume (apparently they are working on a male version right now) but I Love Belgium must admit that the smell is very unisex. The smell can’t be described as a typical female fragrance (a lot of female perfumes are very sugary or use a lot of flowers) nor a male fragrance (that are usually filled with spices and wood notes). The green starts very subtle with citrus and ends with heavier woodnotes. The perfect balance! I Love Belgium is immediately a fan.
© I Love Belgium