1
Apr
 2010

Haider Ackermann at Pitti

Haider Ackermann, one of Belgium’s hottest names on the Paris runway calendar, will stage his first major runway show outside of France this summer at Pitti Imagine, in an important coup for the Florence, Italy-based trade show.

Colombian-born Ackermann launched his eponymous label in 2001 and immediately won acclaim for his avant-garde draping, subtle use of leather and fashion sensibility which borders on abstract art. A graduated of the famed Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Ackermann made his runway debut in Paris in 2002. After quickly garnering critical kudos, Ackermann won the prestigious Swiss Textiles Award in 2004.

Though primarily a men’s fashion event, the Florentine trade fair has developed a growing importance in women’s fashion and this season will mark the 6th edition of Pitti W. Since its launch, Pitti has always staged two large runway shows or fashion events curated by major league international designers, one for women, one for men. Recent guests have included Giambattista Valli, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Adam Kimmel. Any invitation to show in Pitti is regarded as an honor and confirmation that a brand or designer is a key player or creator of merit in the world of fashion. Check out I Love Belgium’s runway review of Ackermann’s Fall/Winter 2010 collection.

© I Love Belgium

- Written by Stijn Verlinden - Tagged with: , , , ,

7
Mar
 2010

Haider Ackermann – FW10

It was quiet, very quiet. You could feel that something was coming up. Some muffled coughing, jokers who couldn’t resist to whistle and other people shutting them up by ssshhhh-ing. And than it came. A big, fat monotone beat, you could feel into your throat, making the models march out. Marilyn Manson’s dark version of ‘I put a spell on you’ sounded frightening from the speakers. The models indeed looked like futuristic witches. I even had a Mad Max flashback, but without the enormous shoulder pads. Leather jackets, peplums that could be zippered off, leather waist belts and heavy drapery tops and jackets that reminded me of judo outfits. Collars were reinvented and draped around the neck. Haider Ackermann stayed true to his colour palette: monochrome silhouettes in browns, blacks and tan colours. Nothing new there. But the softness of previous collections made place for strong women, you don’t want to mess with. From fairytale fairies to cyber fairies. During the day conquering the world in long capes or shiny two-piece suits and at night woo-ing their lovers in laser-cut leather dresses or cut-up fluid flare pants. I was immediately enchanted and listening to the cheers during the finale, the whole of Paris was also très enchanté. Read the rest of this entry »

- Written by Stijn Verlinden - Tagged with: , , , , , ,